DIY WOOD SHELVING WALL

open shelving in the kitchenWe’re almost finished with our kitchen renovation, and I’m so excited to share this high-impact shelving project with you! Our original kitchen (see floor plan before and after below) had lots of bulky cabinets on this wall, but because we planned to enlarge the island countertop for dining, the walkway would become too crowded if we left the cabinets in their place. So I decided to remove the cabinets* and build this large wall of shelving in their place.

*The old cabinets are being repurposed in our basement as well as in our neighbor’s garage.

kitchen floor plan before and after

While I did lose some hefty pantry storage from the large cabinet beside the refrigerator, the new shelves provide a convenient place to store prettier things like my jars of dry goods and less frequently used serving dishes. (You’ll see some everyday dishes stored here currently because I haven’t finished the kitchen yet. They will end up on the opposite wall on a floating shelf, and more dry goods will replace them on this shelving unit.) As you can see in the floor plan above, we added a pantry around the corner from this wall of shelving. We’ll store less frequently used food and appliances in that pantry, while we’ll be storing our most regularly used food items on this wall of shelving in baskets, jars, and bread boxes.

When I originally planned our kitchen renovation, I had planned on incorporating grays, whites, and wood tones, using gray on the island and possibly on this wall of shelving. (Below is the drawing I made before we began demo on the original kitchen.)

kitchen renderingThe problem with my plan was the substantial expense of the lumber needed for such a big wall of chunky shelves. In the end, I decided to use construction-grade 2×10 boards from a local lumber yard, each 8′ board costing me only $10.33 each. Buuuut, the catch is these boards are often heavily damaged with chunks missing from the corners, unevenness, gouges and knots on the face, and, the worst of all— warping.

Lucky for me, I’ve made friends with the guys at my favorite lumber yard and they offered to pull down all of the 2x10s in stock with a fork lift and search through each individual board to find the clearest and cleanest boards for my project. They still weren’t all perfect, but I was able to work around the damaged bits by putting the rougher edges in the back facing the wall, and the nicer edges facing the room.

open shelving in the kitchenwood pantry shelving wallCHALLENGES IN WORKING WITH CONSTRUCTION-GRADE LUMBER

I’m so glad I was able to execute this design without spending hundreds to a thousand dollars on lumber, but that’s not to say I didn’t put a lot of time and effort into making this construction-grade pine look its very best.

The sanding was by far the most time-intensive aspect of the project. In all, I spent over two days one weekend getting the uneven, heavily dented and damaged wood to be perfectly smooth. (More on that later.) After sanding, I realized I would need to rethink my usual methods of wood finishing to get the yellow pine to take on a tone more like teak. I ended up deciding against wood stain, instead using a multi-step process of conditioning, dyeing, and glazing to tone down the blotchiness and yellow tones that you typically get when staining pine.

The fitting together of the shelves was the most frustrating part of this project. I thought that I had selected pretty straight boards, but later I found out I wasn’t being picky enough. I ended up having to scrap at least two 8′ boards that had been painstakingly sanded and glazed, because I trimmed them too short when I was trying to make them compensate for the warped boards around them. (This was the biggest issue in my long vertical boards on the right section of shelves.) My advice would be to make sure your longest boards are as straight as can be, because if they are the slightest bit warped, it will give you hell later. If you must use warped boards, cut them to use for the smaller shelving sections.

You can see in the image above that the boards don’t fit perfectly in their place, but it’s good enough for me!

wood shelving wall how toPREPPING THE LUMBER

SELECTING YOUR LUMBER

I chose to work with construction-grade lumber because of its cost-saving potential, though I knew it would be tricky to work with. At all costs, avoid warped boards. It is not worth working with a beautiful piece of wood if it’s warped! If you’re trying to find lots of boards, like I was, you may end up not being able to get all of the pieces perfectly straight. But as I said before, cut the slightly warped boards into smaller pieces to use for narrow shelves.

After removing the warped boards from your options, I recommend looking for the pieces that are less chipped and raw at the corners, unless you want a very rustic look. When using 2x10s, boards with pretty corners all around can be difficult to find. Some of my boards were pretty rough with knots all over and even bark on the corners, but I situated the boards so that those edges would face the wall upon installation, and you can’t see those spots in the end.

You’ll also want to pay attention to the coloring of the lumber. Pine can have dark coloring in places, and this uneven toning only becomes even more noticeable after staining. Try to find pieces that are evenly colored, or as people in the biz say, look for boards that are clear. Also be mindful of boards that are heavily dented or have obviously uneven surfaces. This will be a huge pain for you when it comes to sanding!

SANDING

The first step to making construction-grade lumber look great is by sanding the living daylights out of it! I used a palm sander and began with 80 grit sandpaper. I sanded and sanded each board until there were no more chips, dents, or uneven spots. (This is why I recommend buying a large roll of sticky-back sandpaper, as you’ll go through loads of it and this form of sandpaper is cost-effective and easily changed.) After leveling the wood with the initial sanding, I went over each board again with 120 grit sandpaper to make it smooth and to remove scratches from the 80 grit paper. The first round of sanding was exhausting and took ages, but sanding with the 120 grit was thankfully much quicker.

Be careful when handling your wood! If you bump it into a corner, or even scratch it with your fingernail before staining, it will affect the way the wood accepts the stain. (The scratched and dented areas will appear darker, highlighting those flaws.) Treating the wood so gingerly is annoying but absolutely necessarily.

FINISHING THE LUMBER

FINISHING STEP ONE: Apply a dye or stain to your wood.

After reading a lot about how to get pine to look its best, I decided to use a wood dye rather than stain. Wood dye is accepted more evenly by the pine, whereas stain is absorbed differently across the length of a board because of the density variances in pine. Another way to help the pine take color evenly is to use a wood conditioner.

I used Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner, let it rest for five minutes, then brushed on a coat of General Finishes light brown dye. (I used one and a half quarts of pre-stain and one and a half pints of diluted dye for all of my lumber.) After testing out the dye for the first time, I decided it was too dark at full strength, so I diluted it with water (which I could do because it’s a water-based dye). Below, you can see how I tried out different concentrations of dye and water to achieve the look I wanted, which ended up being the board second from the right.FINISHING STEP TWO: Seal the wood before applying glaze.

Apply one coat of polyurethane or polyacrylic*, then lightly sand down the wood with a high grit sandpaper, like 400-600 grit paper. This will knock down the little wood hairs that stick up after being moistened by the polyurethane, making the wood nice and silky smooth. The next time you moisten the wood, those hairs will not come up again because the wood has been sealed by the first coat of poly. After the finishing sand, you should brush or spray on one more coat of poly before applying the glaze.

*Polyurethane will slightly yellow over time, which is more of a concern when you are using it to seal white or very light colors. The yellowing is not so noticeable in medium to dark wood tones. I chose polyurethane over polycrylic because while polycrylic won’t yellow, it also doesn’t hold up as well over time because of the water-based chemical structure.

FINISHING STEP THREE: Glaze your wood to further mask the imperfections of the pine wood and to achieve the the exact color you want your wood to be.

MIXING CUSTOM GLAZES

After dyeing the wood, I began mixing custom glazes to take away from the reddish/yellowish tint of the wood (which is less obvious in the picture above, but looked pretty “off” and even a bit greenish next to the maple flooring in my kitchen). To make my glaze, I used artists oil colors mixed with liquin. The ratio I ended up liking was one 250ml bottle of liquin mixed with half of a tube of raw umber, one-third of a tube of Davy’s gray, and a touch of purple. (I mixed red and blue to make purple, but buying full tubes of blue and red is wasteful, so I don’t recommend doing that unless you already have the tubes.)

For the amount of wood I used, I needed two 250ml bottles of liquin, but when I began, I wasn’t sure how much I would need. So about two-thirds of the way through the glazing process, I had to mix up another batch. I think I did a decent job of mixing the second batch to look about the same as my first batch, but I would recommend making more than you think you will need at the outset, and storing any leftover glaze in a clean can. I still have some leftover glaze which I may use again in the future.

FINISHING STEP FOUR: Finally, after the glaze has cured for a minimum of 24 hours (yes, it does take that long to dry!), apply a final coat or two of polyurethane or polycrylic. This will protect your glaze from normal wear and tear.

DIY open shelving in the kitchenBUILDING THE SHELVES

Because your space requirements will vary from mine, I won’t be sharing specific dimensions of my space. You will need to do your own measuring and planning, but if you have any questions about specific sizes I used in areas of my shelves, I’m happy to answer in the comments below!

To get things started, I built a little toe-kick platform out of 2x4s (as shown above), which would lift the shelves off the ground to prevent stubbed toes, also helping to extend the flooring visually, making the shelves seem a bit like they’re floating, and less of a bulky intrusion in the room. I ended up covering the platform with painted lauan plywood, which is the same material I used on the face of our cabinet toe-kick area.

pocket hole joineryJOINERY METHODS

I used two joinery methods when building the shelves, and neither of them are fancy—pocket holes, and simply screwing directly through the perpendicular boards. (See images above and below.)

Pocket hole joinery is a great method for connecting wood in less visible locations. You just clamp on a jig which helps you drill precise pilot holes at an angle into the wood that you’re trying to connect to a perpendicular piece of wood. Kreg jigs are a great way to go, as there are a few jig options for smaller or bigger jobs, including clamps and even screws. (I usually just buy off-brand pocket screws from my local hardware store.) My advice is to always practice joining two pieces of scrap wood so you can mess up and learn your way around.

Typically, after drilling my pilot holes in the wood, I will clamp together the two pieces of wood to be joined before I drill in the screws. However, as you can see in the above right image, when you’re working with very long boards, this isn’t always possible. But you should still be careful to ensure that the boards are square as you connect them. (I recommended using a steel square like this for woodworking projects.)

DIY open shelving in the kitchenAs I assembled my shelves, I made a point to use pocket hole joinery in the least noticeable places. For instance, I used pocket screws on the bottom of the bottom shelf to connect it to the verticals on either side of that section (which you can see in the image before the above one). I also worked from right to left, using pocket holes on the right side of a shelf, then placing the adjacent vertical board, and then screwing directly into that vertical board, since that screw would end up hidden by the next row of shelves. (See the above right image.)

Once I worked all the way to the final left vertical board, I again screwed the shelves into place from the outside of that vertical board, so I wouldn’t have to use pocket screws on that side of the shelves. (See the image below and note that there are no visible pocket screws, because I drilled screws through the left vertical board and into the shelves.) Those screws are eventually hidden by the shelving unit’s placement against the adjacent refrigerator cabinet.

DIY open shelving in the kitchenI assembled the whole shelving unit on the floor, then had help lifting it into place. Thanks to my precise measurements, it fit very snugly between the ceiling and the toe-kick platform I had built on the floor—to the point where I had to use a sledgehammer (and a buffer piece of wood) to tap it into place. Then I screwed the entire unit into the adjacent cabinet as well as into the ceiling beams to secure it. (I countersunk those screws so they are barely noticeable.)

I built the whole unit in sections, beginning with the section beside the refrigerator, then moving on to the right side of the kitchen doorway, then joining the two sections by building more shelves above the doorway.

light switch built into a shelfOn a super practical note, I figured I should share one of the unexpected challenges of the shelving design: The two main light switches to the left of the kitchen doorway would be obstructed by the shelving unit’s placement. I had a few ideas to work around this issue, but then I learned about the shallow electrical boxes from Legrand which can fit right inside a shallow nook which would need to be routered into the face of the 2×10 board. It seems like magic, because when looking at the shelving unit from the front, you’d never know an electrical box is buried inside. But from the outside edge, you can see the two paddle switches that allow one to easily turn on and off the lights to the kitchen, without reaching around the shelf and behind my utensil crock each and every time!

I’m so glad I found a work-around for this light switch issue! But I must add, the work involved in this solution was not a job I did myself. I gladly stepped aside and let my engineer Daddio do all of the routering and wiring involved. (He did practice on a scrap piece of 2×10 before routering the actual finished shelving unit.) Then I finished up the job by screwing a blank plate over the old electrical box in the wall, which you can see if you look carefully at one of the earlier close-ups that show my jars and utensil crock.wood shelving wall how toIn the image below, you can see the pocket screws, which are technically visible in the shelving unit. Of course, I have the option to use stained pocket hole plugs or tinted wood filler to cover these holes, but I wanted the option to potentially move the shelves in the future, so I decided to leave the screws exposed. They are barely noticeable unless you are are child or are looking up at the shelving unit while sitting on the floor.

how to build a wood shelving wallDIY wood shelving unitAfter this project was finished, I was ready to take a bit of a break from house projects. So much work! But if I could go back in time, I would definitely do it all over again! Sure, I’d jump at the chance to hop in my time machine and not mess up those two pristinely finished 8′ boards that I had spent hours sanding and finishing … but as far as everything else goes, I’m really happy with how the shelving unit turned out, and I think it really rounds out the kitchen and dining space quite nicely!

If you all have any questions about this project, please reach out in the comments below. I’m happy to help in any way I can! – 

Kitchen Material and Product Sources:

Wall paint: Benjamin Moore’s Super White
Cabinet paint: Annie Sloan’s Pure White
Wall tile: Home Depot
Tile grout: TEC Silverado
Pink sink: Thermocast
Faucet: Kraus from Home Depot
Island butcher block: Lumber Liquidators sealed with Waterlox
Flooring: Lumber Liquidators maple engineered wood
Knobs: eBay
Stove: KitchenAid from Home Depot
Refrigerator: KitchenAid from HomeDepot
Bar stools: Sold out at Target— similar here
Dining table: vintage
Dining chairs: LexMod
Cat poster: vintage
Round lidded baskets on shelving wall: Xinh & Co
Kitchen radio: TEAC
Lighting: Hinkley Congress collection 
Food storage jars: Le Parfait
Flooring: Lumber Liquidators

SEQUIN PHRASE PILLOW DIY!

While I’m over here in Nashville wishing for spring, the weather has other plans as we just had our first big snows of the season. I like to keep warm weather plants and photos of beach and desert scenes in the house to keep my mood up in the dull winter months, but I have to admit that the recent snows were pretty cozy (and beautiful!). So I thought I’d dedicate my next pillow project to the winter season and add a sequin phrase pillow into the mix to add a little sparkle to the couch. Here’s how to make your own sequin phrase pillow:Supplies:
-plain pillow (an oblong shape was best for my phrase)
–sequin trim
-fabric glue
-straight pins and fabric scissors
–Let It Snow Phrase Download

First, either print out the “let it snow” phrase (resize if needed for your pillow) or create your own with a cursive font or handwriting the correct size for your pillow. Next, use scissors or an X-Acto knife to cut out your words so that you have a paper with the negative space where the words should be. Place that paper onto your pillow in the appropriate spot and use a pen to trace the words in your phrase onto your pillow (just a thin line will do so you know where to place your sequin trim). If you have a longer phrase, you’ll probably need to do one word at a time if you are printing it on to regular-sized paper first.Use straight pins to pin your sequin trim along the traced phrase line until you have your words pinned on. There may be a few areas (like on my “I” and “t”s) where you have to backtrack on the sequin trim to get back down to the bottom, so just pin the second layer of trim on top of the first and you’ll glue them together so they read as one line later. Cut and save any floating pieces (like the dots of “i”s or crosses of “t”s) until the very last step.

Once all your letters are pinned in place, start at the beginning of your phrase and slowly remove one pin at a time. Use your fabric glue to glue each section in place. Continue removing pins and glueing sections down until your whole phrase is secure. Add your finishing pieces like the crosses of your “t”s and let your glue fully dry.I wanted to add something extra to my pillow, so I took some pom poms that had been removed from an old blanket and sewed those around the edges to give it an extra pop of texture. It looks great! As you can see, if you need to backtrack on part of a letter, just glue your second layer of sequins almost directly on top of the original path (like on the “it” section) then it will still read as one line and you won’t have to keep cutting your trim in lots of different spots.It’s a little tedious to pin your phrase in place and glue it down little by little, but overall I think the effect of having a custom sequin phrase is totally worth a little extra effort. This pillow looks so cute and I’ll take any little thing that helps to make the winter a bit brighter while waiting for spring. Hope you love this way to add a little sparkle into your home! xo.

DIY EMBROIDERED PHOTO FRAME

Hello friends! Got a fun and crafty little photo frame DIY for you today. I don’t know about you, but sometimes I want a project that can keep my hands busy yet doesn’t necessarily take all my focus. In the past, I’ve turned to things like crochet and embroidery, just fun little crafts that you can complete while watching your favorite TV show or catching up on podcasts. And this photo frame project totally fits the bill, plus you can easily customize the look to fit your own home decor or even to gift. I think this would make a really fun Mother’s Day gift, for example. 🙂

I worked with Canon USA on this project, using my PIXMA TS8120 to print the photos I put in my frames. I love being able to print photos at home, especially when I’m only needing a few to frame for a project like this. It’s quick and easy, and I don’t have to wait for photos to come in the mail. I also love the new six ink colors this printer has because it really makes black and white photos pop. I realize these are ‘just photos of my dogs,’ but as a crazy dog lady, I appreciate the high quality of the prints. 🙂

This photo frame project is very much inspired by vintage embroidered basket bags. I love the look of those bags and I love that they have come back in style over the last few years. See below for one I scored at a thrift store—and there are also lots for sale on Etsy that are just beautiful!

I chose to use burlap as the base of my frame, and if you use brown burlap (the more classic color), I think it would look even more like a vintage embroidered basket bag. I have quite a bit of brown in my home already though, so I decided to go with a cream colored burlap instead. While I was shopping for my supplies, I saw there was also pink, green, and black burlap as well, which I think could totally work and make this project even more colorful and fun! I also chose to use raffia instead of yarn or embroidery floss, but you could easily change that up too. I guess my point is there are lots of options, but here are the basics of how to create a DIY embroidered photo frame:

In this video, you can see me make my photo frame from start to finish. But here are a few more helpful tips and tricks before you get started.

Supplies:
-plain frame (I used 5×7)
-foam board
-1/2 yard of burlap
-raffia (I used tan and red)
-wood beads
-stapler
-glue gun
-scissors
-X-Acto knife

On the frame, you will see the side of the base frame, so I would choose a color that goes well with the color burlap you choose. So if you use black or a dark colored burlap, you might use a black plain frame. I chose cream burlap so I used a white frame.

Step One: Cut the foam board to fit the frame. This is what your burlap will wrap around, so you may also want to choose black or white foam board based on what matches your burlap more.

Step Two: Embroider your design and add beads. You can add any kind of design you like but I aimed to create simple little floral shapes. Use the foam frame underneath the burlap to give you an idea of where your designs will fall (they should all be on the frame).

This is the part of the project that takes the most time, but you can easily do this while watching TV or something. I watched two episodes of The Office one night while I made this. Trey and I have been rewatching that show lately, and it’s still hilarious.

Here’s a close up of what my embroidery and beads looked like. Personally, I like the messy, imperfect look as it feels natural alongside the supplies I was using. But if you’re an embroidery PRO, feel free to do your thing. 🙂

Step Three: Staple the fabric to the foam board. This is kind of the mini version of upholstering a seat cushion or the top of a stool. If you’ve never done DIY upholstering before, think of it like wrapping a present. Don’t feel like the edges have to be absolutely perfect. But if you’d like to practice I would do so with a piece of extra burlap before adding the embroidery elements (so if you mess up you can just throw it away and not feel like you wasted your embroidery).

Step Four: Use a hot glue gun to glue the fabric board to the frame.

 

Step Five: Print your photo and add to the frame. (I used semi-gloss paper.)

You’re done! Super fun and easy—embroidery beginners don’t be afraid to try this one as it’s seriously very simple, but I really love how these frames turned out. Thanks for letting me share! xo. 

DIY FELTED MACARON GARLAND

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-9

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-9

One of my goals with the new year was to try out new crafting techniques that I haven’t tried before. I have already tried paint marbling and loved it and now I am trying my hand at felting. At first, I tried to wet felt in which you use hot soapy water to felt wool roving, but it turned out to be trickier that I thought it would be. So then I tried needle felting with the help of a multi-needle tool and it was so much easier! So much so that I had grand ideas to create this 3D DIY felted macaron garland. And you know what, it turned out super cute and was actually pretty easy to do. It looks adorable strung up on my bar cart for Valentine’s Day, but would also look great in a kids room or above a sweets table for a party. And once you try felting, you can try your hand at different shapes to create a custom garland for any theme.

DIY-Felted-Macaron-GarlandMaterials:
-wool roving (about 1 ounce will make two 1″ macarons, so use that measurement to get enough for your garland in any colors you want)
–needle felting mat
–Clover multi felting needle
-white roving yarn
-baker’s twine
-embroidery needle

Step 1: Begin by cutting a 48″ long piece of colored roving and spread out the roving to get the fibers loose and flatten it out a bit instead of having it in a strand.

Step 2: Roll the roving up into a tight ball shape. You want to vary the direction of the roving while rolling it up so that it doesn’t end up like a cinnamon roll but more of a uniform ball shape. Don’t worry if it is slightly misshapen or has lumps; the needle felting will make it more uniform.

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-2Step 3: Place the ball of roving on your felting mat and use the needle tool to prick the roving over and over again. As you do this, the roving will start to bind together to create a solid ball shaped piece. Since we are making macarons, use the needles to prick the roving into an disc like macaron shape. Don’t forget to turn the piece over and felt it from all sides.

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-2

Step 4: Once you have it in a macaron shape, cut a 6″ piece of white roving yarn and tie it around the center of the macaron to create the “filling”. Then prick this roving yarn with the needles to felt it onto the macaron. Once you have felted the two pieces together, you can trim off the excess yarn.

Step 5: Now repeat the macaron making process for all your roving colors. Once you get the hang of it, they come together fairly quickly. I think it ended up taking me about 5-10 minutes per macaron.

Step 6: The last step is to thread the baker’s twine onto the embroidery needle and stitch through the top of each macaron to thread them into a garland. Tie off the ends and it is ready to hang.

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-2

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-2

DIY-Felted-Macaron-Garland-2

I promise if you try needle felting, you will get hooked. It is such a great stress reliever and you can create so many different shapes such as hearts, rainbows, or stars. The more you play around with it, you can even get into more complex shapes like little animals. Happy felting! xo. 

MAKE YOUR OWN EXFOLIATING SOAP BARS

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8I know I have said it before, but I love to make soap! And now with the Oui Fresh essential oils, I love making soap even more because I can make my own blends in my soap bars. So not only are they pretty, but they are a great way to incorporate essential oils into my everyday. In addition to the essential oils in these soap bars, I added pink Himalayan salt for an exfoliating bonus. And of course since it is February, I went with a pink marble heart shape. But you can easily make these bars using the same technique in any color and shape.

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8Materials:
–white melt and pour soap
–Oui Fresh essential oils
-soap colorant (you can use liquid colorant from the craft store or these color blocks)
-pink Himalayan salt
–square silicone pan
-shaped cookie cutter
-microwave-safe bowls
-spoon
-sharp knife

Step 1: Begin by cutting your soap base into 1″ pieces. There is no need to be precise here, but you will want to cut up about 1 pound of soap.

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8Step 2: Divide the pieces of soap into two bowls and melt in your microwave for 1 minute or until the soap just melts and begins to bubble. Stir and add in 5-10 drops of your essential oil. I went with lavender because I love the smell and calming nature of it, but you can use any oil. Just make sure to stay clear of strong oils if you are using these soaps for kids.

Step 3: Pour the white soap into the mold and then use a spoon to drizzle on the pink soap.

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8Step 4: Let the soap in the mold cool for about 30 seconds to 1 minute and then drizzle on a bit more pink soap and sprinkle the salt crystals on the soap. Some will sink into the soap and some will stay on the surface. Now let the soap cool for an hour or two.

Step 5: Remove the soap from the mold and use a cookie cutter to cut the soap into your desired shapes. If you don’t want to have extra waste soap leftover, just use a knife to cut the soap into bars.

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8

Make-Your-Own-Exfoliating-Soap-Bars-8So simple and yet so much good is packed into these soap bars. And as I mentioned, these bars can easily be customized to your needs. You can use a black charcoal powder in your soap to give even more cleansing power and give it a traditional black and white marble look, or swap out the pink Himalayan salt for Epsom salts. Plus, you can use any essential oil or blend of oils you want, depending on if you are looking for anti-bacterial, calming, or rejuvenating properties. I hope you all will try to make your own exfoliating soap bars, and I promise it is easier to do than you might think. xo. 

Inside a Guest Bedroom Makeover That Transports Its Visitors to Spain

  It must be something about the frenetic pace our lives are running at right now or the fact that it’s almost the end of another year, but fatigue seems to be at an all-time high. So of course, when this dreamy guest bedroom makeover trickled into my inbox, all I could think about was all the catch-up sleep I’m going to have over the impending holiday break (who’s on a countdown?). If only our boudoirs or hotel rooms looked like this one.
 
 

This Hip L.A. Hot Spot Offers More Than Just Fashion—Look Inside!

Whenever we hand over the plastic and spend our hard-earned cash on designer clothing, we want the whole experience. From the moment we step inside a retail store, we want to be transported to another world where luxury and style rule and our everyday realities are just a daydream. Taylor Anne of Taylor Anne Interiors made this happen when she transformed L.A. fashion boutique Maher into a modern industrial masterpiece with a heady dose of glamour.

“I love the feeling this space gives you,” she said. “It’s almost like walking into your dream closet where everything is in its place. It just feels so light and airy, like a breath of fresh air. You just want to sit in there, kick your heels off, and have a glass of champagne and relax for a while.” This organic luxury is Anne’s signature, incorporating a fresh, approachable design style with loads of texture despite the overriding neutral palette. Take the tour to see how Anne achieved this look and get her style notes on the space.

This Jaw-Dropping Spanish Revival Is Our 2018 Dream Home

While we talk a lot about interior design at MyDomaine HQ—and we love nothing more than to decorate a space—it’s architecture that really makes our hearts skip a beat. This structure forms the foundation, or canvas, if you will, for everything that comes after it. So if your home doesn’t have “good bones,” then the interior design process will definitely be a more challenging process to cover up any architectural flaws.

Step Inside Hilary Duff’s Stunningly Vibrant Los Angeles Home

10 Blogs Every Interior Design Fan Should Follow

If you’re anything like us, you already have a list of daily home-design reads that keep your inspiration levels way up and are a reliable resource for decorating, party planning, or redesigning. But just as the latest trends shift with the seasons, so too do our favourite websites. We’ve gone through our bookmark bar (aka our little black book of home décor blogs) to uncover the talented resources we constantly turn to. From big-name interior designers to DIY experts and everyday decorators with a knack for making the ordinary look extraordinary, there’s no shortage of style among this bunch.

So go on—get bookmarking. Stunning interiors, décor finds, and styling ideas from the best interior design blogs are just a click away.